How to eliminate them now that poison is a no no. Back to traps.. see Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6nGq4f3-Zg
Apologies for the 4 year hiatus, I’m back online again and will keep you posted!
The TV series the great British garden revival show featuring Tilford garden will be on BBC 2 in the new year, probably January. For more information about the series click here.
The Tilford Cottage Garden 2014 NGS open all year round. April to September by appointment. Groups welcome, minimum 6 people. Hope you can make it!
1. For bright green shiny leaves and to prevent fungal disease, such as Cylindrocladium With TOPBUXUS HEALTH-MIX, you can give your box plants bright green shiny leaves, preventing yellow edges and faded colours. To achieve this, treat your box plants 3-5 times during the growing season from March to October. This will also make your box plants healthier and stronger, resulting in them becoming more resistant to disease, etc.; this will particularly help to prevent fungal diseases such as Cylindrocladium. 2. To deal immediately with an acute fungal disease such as Cylindrocladium With TOPBUXUS HEALTH-MIX, you are able to immediately stop acute fungal disease such as Cylindrocladium. An acute fungal disease is immediately recognisable from the brown points that will swiftly expand to form blemishes. The most dangerous period is when there is protracted rainfall in combination with high temperatures. If you do nothing, the diseased box plant will soon start to lose its leaves and, in the worst case, if you fail to treat it, the affected branches can die, resulting in dead areas in your box plant. The diseased plants will then unfortunately have to be replaced. However, if you promptly use TOPBUXUS HEALTH-MIX after treatment, leaves will soon sprout on the diseased branches and recover. When the onset of disease is evident, immediately carry out the treatment. Under normal circumstances, one treatment is sufficient. It is extremely important to also immediately treat all of your healthy box plants. Should the warm and damp weather persist, repeat the treatment after 1 week. Thorough inspection is recommended in the future, particularly when the weather is warm and damp for protracted periods of time. If necessary, at a later date, you can simply repeat the treatment; this means you will continue to get maximum pleasure from your box plants. Do not use above 25 degrees Celsius Only use early in the morning or evening in warm, sunny weather Can be used in damp weather, but preferably for use on dry foliage. If seriously affected with lots of brown spots and shedding leaves, we recommend that you first prune the plants considerably and then treat them straight away with TOPBUXUS HEALTH-MIX, which will encourage rapid regrowth
I am thinning out beds and these plants are potted and ready to go, collection only, call before you come. Prices are by your kind donation for the NGS The “Umbrella Plant, is an absolutely superb specimen that starts off with truly gorgeous sprays of pink flowers on thick stems in earliest spring. It then pushes up umbrella-like leaves, rather like a gunnera but not as large or sprawling. This stunning waterside plant is especially wonderful in the waters edge, or where it can be allowed to grow large, although it does perfectly well in a dry garden!. Water lily we think it is Rose Nymphe. Large leaves Vigorous habit white flowers with a hint of pink. Cornus alba sibirica ‘Red Twig’ will grow in any soil, but for best winter stem colour a moist site in full sun is recommended. Sibirica is a deciduous, upright growing shrub with brilliant smooth, crimson red stems, dark green leaves, small clusters of white flowers in early summer and small white berries.. This dogwood looks stunning planted in groups, beside water or in a winter border – and works well with orange or yellow –stemmed varieties of other dogwood. Hard annual pruning produces the best display of colourful winter stems, prune second year within 2 in of the ground on previous years growth. Tolerates full sun to partial shade. Choisyya Ternata Mexican Orange Blossom. Wonderfully scented, star-shaped, white flowers appear in late spring among glossy, aromatic, dark green leaves. This handsome, compact and easy-to-grow shrub is a valuable garden mainstay for a protected site in sun or part shade, although in shade it may not flower. The glossy, evergreen leaves provide an excellent backdrop for medium-sized perennials and pale-grey or purple foliage plants. Hemerocallis produce elegant, usually trumpet-like blooms in summer and are easy to grow in many gardens. Each plant produces many flowers, so displays will last for weeks. I am thinning out areas of the garden and I have potted up specimens of these and many others too.
If you are gardening, you are now dealing with the extreme and more frequent changes in the weather. This is not a philosophical discussion or something that is happening to other people. Climate change brought about by global warming is altering all the individual elements and life patterns that make up a garden’s environment. Many of the changes around us are invisible and, unless you have gardened for years, the altered patterns are imperceptible. It’s the seasoned gardener who is noticing the fundamental changes garden rhythms. More and more, gardeners are unable to rely on creating a successful garden by doing things the way they have been done in previous years. The bottom line: It’s all changing due to global warming and climate change. The most effective way of dealing with these changes is to work with nature and to follow nature’s directions for addressing the new variables in balanced ways. However, when working with nature, the greatest element that limits nature’s role and what it can offer is the human mind. We close down nature’s information about necessary change by assuming that the patterns that have been previously set will continue. As gardeners, it is vital that we enter all our planning sessions with nature with a clear mind and that we set all assumptions aside. The only valid assumption we can take with us into the sessions is that things may change. In general, you need to keep a flexible mind and be willing to accept the needed changes to achieve your garden’s goals in light of the environmental challenges. Different varieties of plants that can better withstand the new weather extremes may need to be planted. The garden’s rows may need to be laid out differently. For example, in areas of extreme drought, rain is retained in soil better when rows are laid out in contour with the land. The planting timing may change. The size of the garden may need to change in order to better meet your goals. In short, everything that goes into planning and working a garden may need to change. Nature is your source when it comes to determining what to do. Or the filter limits you by reducing the chances that you’ll think to ask nature the pertinent questions. So as you move through these early planning sessions, you’ll need to be mentally relaxed, flexible and assumption-free in order to wrap your head around the needed changes. And because global warming and climate change are going to continue for quite some time thus reducing the chances for yearly patterns to form, you’ll need to approach each year’s garden with a commitment to explore new approaches that better address that year’s environmental changes. I see this as an exciting time to be experiencing a co-creative partnership with nature. It’s one thing to be operating with nature in a relatively stable environment with equally stable variables. Patterns that are established early on in the garden’s life remain throughout the years and we can depend on consistency and the comfort that gives us. But climate change has moved us into a situation that is serious and filled with fast-moving changes. More and more we are going to be forced to look for answers and help if we are to successfully navigate our way through these years. We need to shift our thinking and trade the comfort of consistency for the excitement and adventure of change.
The Tilford Gaden 2013 open days are Saturday and Sunday the 22nd and 23rd of June. 10.30 to 4.30 pm. Friday the 28th June evening 6 to 9.00 pm. Saturday and Sunday the 29th and 30th of June. 10.30 to 4.30 pm.
The best time to prune your vines is i n late winter. The end of January to early March is the best time for pruning, the grape vines are inactive. Their dormancy during this period allows you to cut away the old, neglected vines that don’t produce anything. Getting rid of these vines will help to produce more grapes in the future. In the late winter period, you should be eliminating 90% of the wood on the vines. Most of the vines produced in the previous season needs to be pruned. Most gardeners don’t prune enough of the old growth. Leaving this wood will limit the amount of grapes you’ll harvest in the spring/summer season. Light pruning not only affects the number of grapes you harvest, but it also lowers the quality of the grapes. When enough of the old wood is removed, better quality grapes come in. For the best winter pruning, cane pruning is a recommended method. Start by selecting two to four new fruiting canes per vine. Cut back each of these canes, leaving 15 buds per cane (20 to 30 buds per plant for wine grapes). This should amount to 50 to 80 buds per plant. You should leave a two-bud spur cane near the fruiting cane with one or two buds each. These will help to create the canes for the next season. All other cane growth should be removed.
Our days this year were plagued with bad weather but many still braved it. Thank you on behalf of the NGS to all those that did. Rod